Khirganga, the next morning. After an unmolested hot spring experience we had breakfast with a lovely bunch of Israeli blokes and wondered out loud how the hell we were supposed to leave this paradise (well paradise except for the pair of rats playing chasing games all night on the transparent plastic sheeting 2 feet above our bed which passed for a ceiling). Sunflowers, snow-capped peaks, knitting bearded babas and smiling cookies.





But we thought it was time for clean clothes after a few days of trudging through cowshit, so we set off on an even more incredible hike back down.



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