Sleepy Laos

Oh boy I don't even know where to start since this website is so far behind. Righto, let's talk about Laos. Now every single traveller we've met on this trip has told us "You have to go to Laos! The people there are fantastic, so laid back and chilled, it's really the best place we've been." I mean literally everyone has told us this, upwards of 40 travellers I reckon. Most of these people were a bit put off by the people in Vietnam and Cambodia.

Well I got news for everyone. The Laos people aren't 'chilled' or 'relaxed'. The bastards are downright lazy! We happened to love the Vietnamese and the Cambodians. Sure they constantly bother you and pressure you to eat at their restaurant, take a motorbike ride, stay at their hotel etc etc. But they're got so much energy and cheekiness and lust for life and they're so much fun to kid around with and bargain with.

Ok so maybe when we crossed the border we were a little too hyped up or something, but for the next few days we were thinking "Why the hell does everyone love this country so much?" Entering Laos for us was like stumbling into a party where everyone else is completely stoned and semi-comatose and can't be bothered to move or do anything or even acknowledge your existence. Nobody invites you to stay at their hotel or eat at their restaurant. If you want a bite to eat for example, in Vietnam if you're walking down the street and you happen to catch the faintest glimpse of a cafe in your peripheral vision, a waiter will hurl himself across five lanes of traffic to grab your arm drag you in while shoving a menu in your face. In Laos once you locate a restaurant you poke your head in the door to see if there's any signs of life. Then walk in calling out "HELLOOO!" (in English and Lao) to no reaction. Go behind the bar yourself and rustle up some menus. Then when you've decided walk through the back into the house part, pick up the proprietor by the scruff of the neck where he's been snoozing away or watching TV and try to get him to take your order. Sometimes he'll grudgingly scrawl something down and desultorily bring out your food. If you're lucky.

I reckon the torpor is contagious though, this last week we've barely been out of bed before midday and we've gotten used to just serving ourselves at stores and leaving the correct change.